Henannegala: The Ancient Cave Monastery

Hennannegala: The imposing rocky outcrop.

03/12/2021

Mahaoya, Ampara, Sri Lanka.

The mere name ‘Mahaoya’ itself conjures up romantic images of lush dry zone jungles teaming with elephants, scorching sun, tales of Veddas and ancient ruins lying abandoned in the jungles forlornly as if to remind the traveller of the once prosperous past of this ancient land.

Hennannegala is one such place which fits well with the description above.

Hennannegala is a massive rock situated about ten kilometres from Maha Oya on the Maha Oya-Aralaganwila Road (B502) inside the Maduru Oya National Park. Underneath this rock, along a long cave (claimed to be one of the longest in the country) lies an ancient temple dated to the first century B.C. 

The temple is divided into roughly three sections.

1. Upper Vihara
2. Lower Vihara
3. The Rock top

The Upper Vihara consists of an ancient stupa of red brick placed amidst a Weli Maluwa (sand pavilion), which had been recently renovated by the Department of Archaeology, Sri Lanka. It is of an ancient design consisting only of ‘Pesa Walalu’ (Terraces) and a ‘Ghrabhya’ (hemispherical dome containing relics) but lacking a ‘Hatharas Kotuwa’ (Tee Cube) and a ‘Koth Kerella’ (Spire). There is evidence that this stupa had once been plastered but presently the red bricks remain bare.

The restored ancient stupa: looking towards the jungles of Maduru Oya.

The monks quarters and temple buildings are also situated in a pavilion just below the above pavilion. These buildings, even though they were modern constructions, had been tastefully made with clay (wattle and daub construction) with thatched roofs adding to the natural beauty and the ancientness of the place.

The chief monk of the temple mentioned that the temple had been built with royal patronage from both the Anuradhapura royals and the Ruhunu dynasties during the Anuradhapura era.

However, as was the case with many such institutions of that era, the temple was abandoned with time and the regions around the temple became deserted owing to invasions and disease. The rock was swallowed by the jungle and was forgotten. Thereafter, it became a haunt of Veddas, the indigenous hunter-gathers of Sri Lanka and legends say that this cave too had been a home to Veddas.

The Lower Vihara still reminds us of this time. It is unrestored and still wild. Apparently, wild elephants and sloth bears (!) still call it home so one is not permitted to venture to the lower vihara unless accompanied by a knowledgeable guide appointed by the chief monk.

The Lower Vihara is an interesting place. It is a series of halls built along the length of the cave, now lying in ruins. Even though there are many brick building foundations in Anuradhapura, one rarely sees surviving standing brick walls. However, in Hennannegala, such walls are not only visible but they still stand perfectly straight even if they are two millennia old.

The Lower Vihara: Our Guide in the Foreground

A brick wall still standing after two millennia

One can still see a layer of plaster surviving on some of these walls and cave surfaces which carry paintings from the same era. This is especially valuable considering that surviving paintings from the Anuradhapura era are exceedingly rare, especially this old. However, most of the paintings have been extensively damaged over the centuries due to many causes. It is clear that more attention is required to preserve the remaining paintings for the future.

Surviving paintings on plaster from the Anuradhapura era. A very rare finding.

Almost at the end of the cave, one can see the ancient entrance to the temple. It is prominently highlighted with the traditional stoneworks such as ‘Gal Padi’ (stone stairs), flanked by two ‘Korawak Gal’ (balustrades). However, the chief monk mentioned that the ‘Sandakada Pahana’ (moonstone) had been taken away by some party. However, this area is thick scrub jungle now and no road leading to this entrance is visible. There is an abundance of 'Na' trees (Ceylon Ironwood) in this scrub, apparently originating from the trees planted back in the day.

There is also a large inscription on the rock written in Brahmi script. Sources agree that the inscription is on the donations made to the temple but there is an ambiguity regarding the royals referred to in the text.

Brahmi inscription in the Lower Vihara

As with almost any large rock in the dry zone, Henannegala too has ruins of a stupa and other artefacts on the top. However, getting to the top is an interesting journey. The ancient path towards the top is lost to time and is unknown now. Therefore, the path one has to take to the top is the path used by the elephants (!) to the pond at the top. Again one needs to seek permission of the chief monk before climbing to the top and he only permits to go with an experienced guide for obvious reasons.

The path to the top lies through patches of tall Mana bushes, rocky plains and scrub jungle. As soon as one leaves the cave and enters the path to the top they can feel the heat of the dry zone. Sun's rays are harsh and the resulting perspiration just makes the clothes cling to one's body. There are many thorny bushes along the way too so some minor cuts are inevitable. Elephant dung and signs of elephant activity are everywhere, so one needs to be vigilant when doing the climb and always follow the guide's advice. As per the guide we had, noon on a sunny day was the time the elephants were least likely to be around. We were fortunate not to meet any elephants on our ascent.

On the top there is a small pond inside a cave which is used by elephants. A particularly strong odour which was present throughout the area by the pond was described by our guide as 'Ali Ganda' (scent of elephants). I have smelled the same odour at Wilpattu and also Ritigala so I have no doubt that the guide was correct.

Once past the pond, one can see the ruins of a stupa. However, the stupa has been destroyed by treasure hunters and only a mound of bricks remains.

The most rewarding experience once on top was the breathtaking vistas of the miles and miles of jungle and hills one could see all around the rock. 

Views from the path to the top, looking back towards the B502 road.

After spending some time on the rock we descended the rock. On the way down, two elephants were spotted at a distance of about two and a half kilometres in the plains below. However, this absence of elephants seems to be an exception rather than the norm. Elephants are always present in the vicinity so being vigilant is advisable.

Currently, the temple is inhabited by only one monk and a few soldiers from the Civil Defence Force. If you do visit the temple, do not forget to talk to the chief monk and the soldiers. You will be rewarded with many tales about their experiences at the site and life in the dry zone. 

Life there sure is hard, but beautiful.